Indoor training can leave wear on the stick head, especially where it touches the floor. The ball is played along the floor, so the lower part of the head scrapes the court on every touch, and play along the boards adds knocks of the edge against a rigid wall. Hence the habit seen in many changing rooms before the indoor season: a few turns of tape on the toe and the lower part of the head. Below, why it is done, when it makes sense and how to tape a stick so that it still complies with the rules.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The head of an indoor stick is narrower and lighter than on an outdoor stick, because the stick as a whole has to weigh less and work differently with a ball kept flat. What that means for choosing a stick, we described in the post the indoor stick, how it differs from an outdoor stick<\/a>. Less material means less margin for wear. Parquet and artificial indoor surfaces work on the finish like fine sandpaper: the finish can become dull, chip and expose the stick material. On a composite stick the laminate is then exposed; on a wooden one the fibres start to fray and soak up moisture from the floor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tape can help reduce surface wear, but it does not protect the finish from every kind of damage. Check the head when you remove it. As a side effect a taped head knocks more quietly on the court, but that is a by-product, not a reason to tape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A new stick is worth taping before the first indoor session, before the first scuff appears. Tape holds best on an undamaged finish; before taping, check that the surface is clean, dry and prepared according to the manufacturer\u2019s instructions. A stick that has done an outdoor season, with a dull edge and chips, can be taped too; it just needs a more thorough wash and drying. Wooden and composite sticks are taped the same way, with one difference: on a wooden stick the tape also protects the edge from fraying.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tape makes no sense where the head already has a crack, exposed fibres or a white rim along the edge. It repairs nothing, it only covers, and a covered crack cannot be monitored. Such a stick is assessed first, as we described in the pre-indoor-season kit check<\/a>, and returns to play only if the assessment confirms it is safe; otherwise it needs replacing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Cloth hockey tape, such as the ones offered by Grays or Naked. It is thin, slightly elastic, follows the rounded back of the head and comes off without solvents. Not suitable: PVC insulating tape (it stretches, slides on the court and leaves adhesive), packing tape (stiff, cracks at the edge) and bandage tape not intended for this use. Light-coloured tape shows wear sooner, which makes it easier to keep track of when to replace it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The FIH rules, both for outdoor and for indoor hockey, are explicit about this. The entire stick must be smooth and must not have any rough or sharp parts. Tapes and resins are permitted provided they are not hazardous and the taped stick still conforms to the specification: inclusive of all coverings it passes through a ring with an interior diameter of 51 mm, weighs no more than 737 g and is no longer than 105 cm. After taping, check that the stick is smooth and remains within these limits; a single layer does not guarantee compliance. The risks are wrinkles, a loose end and thick build-up, because those are what stop the stick being smooth. The organiser may have requirements of its own, so before a tournament it is worth checking the regulations of the competition in question.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tape on the head wears out like a grip. Durability depends on the tape, surface and intensity of play; replace it when it wears through or its edges lift.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Removal: peel slowly back over itself towards the toe. Adhesive residue comes off with a damp cloth and a few minutes of patience. Solvents and sharp tools are out, because they scratch the finish. Before wrapping again, the head must be dry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The handle is a separate subject: a grip is wound from a different material, in the other direction and with a different overlap. We described it in the post stick grip, chamois or synthetic<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen it is worth it, and when it is not<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Which tape<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
How to tape it step by step<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
What the rules say<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
When to replace it and how to remove it<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Sign<\/th> What it means<\/th> What to do<\/th><\/tr><\/thead> worn through to the finish at the toe<\/td> the tape has done its job<\/td> replace the whole thing<\/td><\/tr> curled edge of a turn<\/td> the adhesive gave way to moisture or dirt<\/td> replace, wash more thoroughly before wrapping<\/td><\/tr> loose end<\/td> finished on the edge instead of the rounded back<\/td> peel back the last two turns and finish at the back<\/td><\/tr> dark, sticky streaks between turns<\/td> adhesive is seeping out from under the tape<\/td> remove, clean the head, wrap new tape<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n